Alcohol or water based stains, such as Laurel Mountain Forge will work better on beech wood than the usual Minwax stains. The beech stock may be difficult to stain, but a darker color will look better. When you are satisfied with your accuracy, then go about the cosmetic work.Ĭitristrip or any furniture stripper can be used to remove the current finish. Shoot groups of 5 rounds and successively increase powder weight by 5 grains per set until you find best accuracy.
#FLINTLOCK PISTOL JUKAR SPAIN PATCH#
Or bore minus ball diameter will give you twice the patch thickness.Īnother rule of thumb for starting powder loads is to use the same powder weight as the ball diameter. A good starting point for ball and patch thickness combination will equal the groove-to-groove bore diameter: ball diameter + (patch thickness x2). Remove the nipple and cleanout screw and make sure the drum/fire channel is clear.ĭetermine the caliber of the bore and get the proper ball size and patch thickness. You've got a little leather invested in it, so why not make the best of it? Check to see that it's not loaded, and inspect the bore for overall condition. Sharon is still shooting this one and winning matches I've re-done a few and always add about a pound of weight to the butt stock under the plate by drilling holes and filling with melted lead. * The stock is Spanish Beechwood, and that stuff is hard! If your going to re-furb the rifle you can use a rasp and remove a lot of wood to get it into better "thin" shape. If the lock is fully disassembled and the parts polished to remove burrs and smooth bearing surfaces it can be lightning fast. * The locks where just assembled from stamped parts. * The "split" area needs attention first, whether it's glued and bedded (acraglas) or somehow made super tight the stock movement will cause issues. With work it can be made into a match winner. I myself have little respect for the current model marketed by Traditions Arms.īut that olde Jukar 45cal barrel is a tack driver! That rifle got a bad rap because of the split stock and it was generally made cheap and there are still folks that don't like it. I am thinking made in the 70s?Most likely something like CVA would sell? It does not seem to be a kit,everything is strieght and fits well,but the color is awfull.What is best to use to get the old varnish off?Thinking i will flat black it with rub areas as to look used but i will shoot it,the barrel is clear as i can blow through the nipple and out.Hope i didn't pester to much with the pictures,it does look like a bad varnish job,the pics don't show it~Thanks all you pros out there. So i thank you all for letting me ask about it and any info or thoughts you have.Jukar Spain 45 ca, #s 027687 and that's it.Barrel has no rust just a little dirty,maybe just a tad of rust here and there,bore looks clean as far as i could see with small light and rifleing is deep and clean,it may have been shot once,then hung up for display. I always looked at a percussion rifle she had, and knew nothing about.She wanted 200 for it, i told here she would not get that becuase of condition and offered to take it home and redo the wood and polish it up a bit, and she said why don't you just take it home, i am tired of looking at it,it's been hangin there forever.Well she basicly gave it to me for the leather a couple old holsters. A friend that owns a little antique store did a little trading with me,she needed some leather,
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